Taping sewing machine



April 1969 J. L. ROCKERATH ETAL. 3,435,786

TAPING SEWING MACHINE Filed May a, 1967 Sheet of 6 l JOHN L.ROCKERATHCZJOHN RHAUGAN BY SAW/W W, I 41/2 )RTTORNEYS J. L. ROCKERATH ETAL3,435,786

A ril 1, 1969 TAPING SEWING MACHINE Sheet Filed May 5, 1 967 INVENTORSJOHN L.. RQCKERATH @JOHN R. HAUGAN mill/W TTOKNEYS April 1, 1969 J.ROCKERATH ETAL 3,435,786

TAPING SEWING MACHINE Filed May 8,1967 Sheet 3 of e J 120 a 3 B6 vill-5:2

ZNVENTORS JOHN LROCKERATH (Ev-JOHN R.- HAUGAN April 1, 1969 J. 1..ROCKERATH ETAL 3,435,786

TAPING SEWING MACHINE Filed ma a, 1967 Sheet 4 o r a I50 l m lea 0 o 28IHH 1 INVENTORS JOHN L. ROC KERR TH 5 JQHN R. HAUGQN April 1, 19-69TAPING SEWING MACHINE Sheet Filed May 8, 1967 S H mT M E R A W E. G 1 AH R. R M wf & 4 9 0 w 2 m BY V 6 fi W Ma April 1969 J. 1.. ROCKERA'YI'HETAL 3,435,786

TAPING SEWING MACHINE Sheet 01 6 Filed May a,

/Wom G LA K U u CA a! M LR MN N 1 J BY H f m. munhn United States Patent3,435,786 TAPING SEWING MACHINE John L. Rockerath, Utica, N.Y., and JohnR. Haugan,

Highland Park, Ill., assignors to Union Special Machine Company,Chicago, 11]., a corporation of Illinois Filed May 8, 1967, Ser. No.636,781 Int. Cl. D05b 23/00 U.S. Cl. 112-2 34 Claims ABSTRACT OF THEDISCLOSURE Sewing machine structure wherein provision is made for sewingtogether two marginal edge portions of two brassiere cups or otherfabric bodies and simultaneously applying a cover tape over the joiningseam, said marginal edge portions first being presented uprightly withdownwardly terminating edges, a stitch line being formed spaced upwardlyfrom an paralleling the edge extremities, then spread apart horizontallyand flattened with adjacent fabric body portions lying thereover andthereagainst, and two stitch lines being formed through the tape, themarginal edge portions and said overlying fabric body portions, thefirst mentioned stitch line being formed by a horizontally reciprocableneedle and a cooperating loop taker and the two other stitch lines onedisposed at one side and the other at the other side of said firststitch line being formed by two vertically reciprocable needles andcooperating loop takers, this procedure being carried out in the singlemachine by a single operator.

The invention relates generally to sewing machine structures whereinfabric bodies are seam joined and seam taped and primarily seeks toprovide a novel machine wherein a single operator joins brassiere cupsand simultaneously undertapes the joining seam.

An object of the invention is to provide a machine of the characterstated wherein are included means for presenting the marginal edges ofthe fabric bodies in uprightly opposed relation with downwardlyterminating edge extremities, stitch forming means including a looptaker operable on a vertical axis and a horizontally reciprocable needlefor forming a stitch line spaced upwardly from and paralleling the edgeextremities of the marginal edge portions and joining said edgeportions, means for spreading apart and flattening the edge portions andoverlying body fabric portions, means for applying a cover tape over thespread apart edge portions, and stitch forming means including two looptakers arranged side-by-side on vertical axes and spaced along a feedline from the first mentioned loop taker, and two verticallyreciprocable needles for forming two stitch lines spaced apart one ateach side of the first mentioned stitch line and serving to secure thecover tape to the fabric bodies.

Another object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine of thecharacter stated wherein the first mentioned seam joining needle and thesecond mentioned tape sewing needles are carried by needle bars whichare swingable as well as reciprocable so as to impart feeding movementto the seams during the joining and taping operations.

A further object of the invention is to provide sewing machine structureof the character stated wherein intermittently operable roller meansalso are provided and positioned to pull the taped seam along as theswinging needle bar carried needles are imparting movement to thejoining and taped seams.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of thecharacter stated wherein the tape applying means is formed to fold overmarginal edge portions of the tape onto the body of the tape and presentsaid over- "ice folded marginal edge portions against the overlyingspread apart and flattened edge portions of the body fabric portions.

Yet another object of the invention is to provide a machine of thecharacter stated wherein the tape stitching needles are so spaced apartwith relation to the spaced and flattened edge portions of the bodyfabrics as to cause their stitch lines to pass through the folded overmarginal edge portions of the tape and the spread apart and flattenededge portions of the body fabrics as well as the underlying non-foldedbody of the tape.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a machine structureof the character stated wherein the vertically reciprocable tapeattaching needle bar and needles and cooperating loop takers compriseparts of the standard sewing machine and the brassiere cup supportingand positioning means, the tape delivery and folding means and the cupjoining seam forming horizontally reciprocable needle bar and needle andthe cooperating loop taker and drive means therefor form part of anattachment assembly readily mountable on and removable from saidstandard machine.

Another object of the invention is to provide a machine of the characterstated wherein the seam spreading and flattening means includes adivider rib upstanding from a base and two brassiere cup supporting andguiding platforms having inwardly and downwardly turned body fabricmargin guiding portions engaging the base uprightly in laterally spacedrelation to and paralleling the rib, a lower spreader rib extending fromthe base and forwardly from the upstanding divider rib and merging intothe base through downwardly and outwardly curved wall portions, and aseam divider and flattener plow fixedly supported to present a receivingend at the terminus of the divider rib and to terminate adjacent thedelivery end of the lower spreader rib and having an upright seamspreader rib overlying the lower spreader rib in adjacent spacedrelation and laterally extending seam flattening wall portions slopinggradually downward toward the end of the plow for gradually flatteningthe seam as it is being moved along.

Yet another object of the invention is to provide a machine of thecharacter stated wherein the upstanding divider rib has needle passageand stitch line clearing openings at its delivery end and also means forvisually indicating to an operator the position at which the join-seamstitching is being effected.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a machine of thecharacter stated wherein the base of the seam spreading and flatteningmeans is mounted in a slideway so that the base, the divider rib and thelower spreader rib can be slid forwardly relative to the platforms andaway from the plow to make the sewing area at the location of thehorizontally reciprocable needle and its cooperating loop taker readilyaccessible.

A further object of the invention is to provide in a machine of thecharacter stateid opposed throat plate and presser foot means cooperablewith the fabric feed at the join-seaming single needle and loop takerposition, means being included for giving the presser foot limitedmovement toward and from the throat plate to permit the fabric to feedmore easily between the presser foot and throat plate and yet providesuflicient pressure against the fabrics at the precise moment that athread loop is being formed for entry by the hook point of the looptaker in order to assure against skip stitching, and the presser footand throat plate also being shaped to present minimal frictionalresistance to passage of fabrics therebetween.

With the above and other objects in view that will hereinafter appear,the nature of the invention will be more clearly understood by referenceto the following detailed description, the appended claims and theseveral views illustrated in the accompanying drawings.

In the drawings:

FIGURE 1 is a front elevational view illustrating a machine structureembodying the invention, parts being broken away and in section.

FIGURE 2 is a horizontal section taken on the line 2-2 on FIGURE 1,parts being broken away to illustrate the loop takers at the tapestitching position.

FIGURE 3 is a left end elevation of the machine structure of FIGURE 1,the sewing head being shown in elevation and the lower portion of themachine being shown in vertical cross section substantially on the line3-3 on FIGURE 2.

FIGURE 4 is a detail horizontal sectional view taken on the line 44 nFIGURE 1.

FIGURE 5 is a fragmentary vertical cross sectional view taken on theline 5-5 on FIGURE 2.

FIGURE 6 is an enlarged elevational view of the adjustment indiciabearing slotted arm of FIGURES 4 and 5.

FIGURE 7 is a perspective view illustrating the seam opening andflattening plow.

FIGURE 8 is a front elevation of the plow of FIG- URE 7.

FIGURE 9 is a side elevation of the plow of FIGURES 7 and 8.

EIGURE 10 is an enlarged perspective view illustrating the tape foldingand directing member and its mounting bracket.

FIGURE 11 is a rear elevation illustrating the feeding roller andactuating device therefor.

FIGURE 12 is a left side elevation of the parts shown in FIGURE 11.

FIGURE 13 is a horizontal sectional view taken through the join-seamingattachment, the section being taken substantially on the line 13-13 onFIGURE 1.

FIGURE 14 is an enlarged fragmentary plan view illustrating thepositioning of the loop taker, the cooperating horizontally reciprocableneedle, the throat plate and the presser foot at the join-seamingposition.

FIGURE 15 is an enlarged detail vertical cross section taken on the line1515 on FIGURE 13.

FIGURE 16 is a section similar to FIGURE 15 taken on the line 16-16 onFIGURE 13.

FIGURE 17 is a perspective view illustrating the slide and theupstanding rib and lower seam opening Il'lb.

FIGURE 18 is an enlarged fragmentary vertical section taken through theslide and the overlying plow near the delivery ends thereof and slightlyin advance of the position of the tape stitching station.

FIGURE 19 is an enlarged vertical cross section illustrating the initialpositioning of the brassiere cups with their terminal margins downwardlyturned against the center rib of the slide.

FIGURE 20 is an enlarged fragmentary section showing the brassiere cupsafter join-seaming thereof.

FIGURE 21 is a view similar to FIGURE 20 showing the seam beinggradually opened by the plow and the underlying or lower seam openingrib.

FIGURE 22 is a view similar to FIGURE 21 showing continuation of theseam opening after the tape has been fed into proper position and infolded condition under the slide.

FIGURE 23 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional view illustratingcompletion of the taped seam.

While the present invention is directed particularly to the assembly bytaped central seaming, of the two cups which combine in the making up ofa brassiere, it is to be understood that the sewing machine structureherein disclosed may be employed in the formation of taped seams forvarious other uses. The practice herein disclosed will be recognized ascombining in a simultaneous operation what has heretofore normallyrequired two separate and distinct operations, usually by two operators.

Formerly, it was necessary for an operator to joinseam the two brassierecups on a single needle lock stitch sewing machine. The assembled cupswere then picked up in bundles and delivered to a second operator whothen attached the tape by suitable other machine operations. The secondoperator used a two needle lock stitch machine similar to the Well knownUnion Special 62200 machine and wherein the presser foot had to besupplied with a plow device and the tape had to be delivered on top ofthe seam. It was also necessary for the operator continuously to spreadthe join-seam with her fingers. Then, she also had to attempt manualguiding of the spread or flattened seam so that its center would comedirectly under the center of the plow device of the presser foot. Thisoperation was not easily performed, and unsightly seamed brassiereswhich could be sold only as seconds or not at all, very frequentlyresulted.

In the example of embodiment of the invention herein disclosed, theclaimed sewing machine structure is made up of the well known UnionSpecial style 62200 G20 machine which employs two needles carried by avertically reciprocable needle bar, this machine being generallydesignated 10, and an attachment generally designated 11 and which isequipped with a horizontally reciprocating needle, a cooperating looptaker, work supporting platform means and novel seam assembling andcontrolling devices is attached to the standard machine 10 in a mannerpermitting convenient mounting and removal. The 62200 G-20 machineherein referred to is illustrated in the Union Special Patents2,329,484, 2,765,759 and 2,830,550 and attention also is directed to theUnion Special Patent 2,749,861 which illustrates in detail needledriving means and needle carrier swinging means of in terest in thepresent disclosure.

In the present disclosure, the work, or in other words, the brassierecups which are being assembled are moved along by the needles whichperform the join-seaming and taping operations, and a roller pullermeans generally designated 12 also is employed for intermittently movingthe taped seam. These feeding operations will be described in detailhereinafter.

Referring to FIGURES l, 2 and 3 it will be observed that the standardmachine 10 is a two needle machine, the two needles being spaced at 20gage or 7 apart from the center line of one needle to the center line ofthe other. The needles 13 are supported in a needle holder 14 which inturn is secured to a needle bar 15. Endwise reciprocatory movement, andalso work feeding swinging movement is imparted to the needle bar 15 inany well known manner, an acceptable example of such means being shownin the previously mentioned Patent 2,749,861.

Arranged to cooperate with the needles 13 in the stitch formation belowthe base or cloth plate 16 is a pair of rotary hooks 17 mounted onvertical axes and driven from the bed shaft 18 shown in FIGURES 2 and 3.A spiral gear 19 secured to each hook shaft (not shown) and driven by aspiral gear 20 on the driven shaft 18 imparts rotation to the respectivehooks 17 at twice the speed of said driven shaft. As is well known, therotary hooks make two complete revolutions for each completereciprocation of the needle bar 15. The standard sewing machinegenerally designated 10 includes the usual presser foot 21 and throatplate 22 in order to provide the necessary stitching instrumentalities.

Reference will now be made to the attachment unit for join-seaming thetwo pieces of fabric, in this particular illustration the two brassierecups which are seamed and taped according to the present invention. Thisattachment structure is shown in FIGURES 1, 2 and 3 in its standardmachine mounted combination, and in greater detail in the remainder ofthe figures, especially FIG- URES 5, '8 to 10 and 13 through 18.

In this disclosure, the attachment unit generally designated 11 is shownas comprised of a housing 23 which is attached at the front to the 'baseplate of the beforementioned 62200 class standard machine by means ofbolts 24, the horizontal needle bar 25 and a rotary hook or loop taker26 and, of course, the corresponding driving mechanisms for each. Apresser foot mechanism which reciprocates endwise slightly incoordination with the needle also is included and later reference ingreater detail will be made to this presser foot equipment.

A spiral gear 27 is suitably secured, as by screws 28, on the driven orbed shaft 18 of the standard machine, its purpose being to drive thecomponents in the attachment unit 11. The spiral gear 27 drives a spiralgear 29 and therethrough imparts rotation to the vertically disposedneedle bar driving shaft 30. To the bottom of the shaft 30 is attached atoothed gear 31 which drives a toothed timing belt 32. A vertical hookshaft 33 located at the left hand side of the housing 23 is fitted atits upper end with the previously mentioned rotary hook or loop taker26, said hook shaft 33 also carrying a driven toothed gear 34 at itslower end, as clearly illustrated in FIG- URES 1 and 2 of the drawings.It is to be understood that the toothed gear 34 has twice the peripheralspeed of the toothed gear 31 since the loop taker 26 must make tworevolutions for each revolution of the vertical shaft 30.

From the foregoing, it will be apparent that as the hand wheel, and, ofcourse, the bed shaft 18 are driven by the usual electrodrive ortransmitter (not shown), the standard machine 10 begins to sew, andsimultaneously the shaft 30 will be set into motion. The shaft 30 drivesthe toothed gear 31, timing belt 32, toother gear 34 and of course, theshaft 33. The shafts 30 and 33 are, therefore, in precisely timedrelationship with one another.

The vertical shaft 30 is fitted at its top portion with a counterweighted crank 35 which forms part of a means for reciprocating thehorizontal needle bar 25. Attached to the counter-weighted crank is acrank pin 36, the lower end 37 of which is secured in thecounter-weighted crank by screw means 38. The upper portion 39 of thecrank pin 36 is located in a needle bearing 40 which is press fittedinto one end 41 of a needle bar driving pitman 42. The other end 43 ofthe pit-man 42 is pivotally attached to a needle bar clamp 44 which isadjustably clamped to the needle bar 25 by means of the separateclamping portion and the tightening screw 45-.

As will be readily apparent, as the needle bar drive shaft 30 isrotated, it imparts rotation to the counterweighted crank 35 which inturn oscillates the pitman 42. By reference to FIGURE 1 it will beapparent that the needle bar 25 is reciprocated in an endwise horizontaldirection in timed relation to the loop taker 26. It is to be understoodthat the needle bar 25 may be adjusted and bodily moved by loosening thescrew 45 so that the point of the needle N may be positioned a greateror lesser distance away from the loop taker 26. As is well known in theart, the use of the rotary hook or loop taker is adjusted so that it isin a precise location with respect to the thread eye of the needle, thisbeing well known adjusting in any lock stitch sewing machine.

As previously mentioned, the needle bar 25 is swung in the direction offeed of the work, or in other words, the join-seam of the brassiere cupsand the action of the needle serves not only to effect the join-seamingbut also to feed the fabric.

By reference to FIGURES l and 13, it will be apparent that the needlebar 25 reciprocates in the needle bar carrier 46 which is pivotallysupported by a stud 47. In order to impart the lateral motion or needlefeed action to the needle bar 25 the needle bar carrier 46 is providedwith an offset extension 48 caryring a pivot screw 49 by means of whichone end of a horizontal link 50 is pivotally connected to the needle barcarrier. The opposite end of the link 50 is pivotally conected to an arm51 secured to a rock shaft '52. The rock shaft 52 is positioned withrespect to height by means of a collar 53 so as to prevent bind in theshaft, and the shaft is journalled in a bearing sleeve 54 in the housing23.

The lower end of the rock shaft 52 has secured thereon an arm 55, bymeans of a split clamping portion having a tightening screw 56. The arm55 has an elongated arcuate slot 57 therein, as best shown in FIGURE. 4,and a bolt 58 passes through said slot and can be adjusted to selectedpositions therein, the adjusted positions being secured by a clamp nut59. The bolt 58 coperates with a sleeve 60 surrounding the shank of thebolt and serves to clamp the arm '55 between the head of the bolt andthe sleeve 60. Pivotally mounted on the sleeve 60 is one end of a pitman61 which has a strap 62 surrounding an eccentric 63. A needle bearing 64is provided between the strap 62 and the eccentric 63, and, of course,the eccentric 63 is secured by set screws 65 on the shaft 30. SeeFIGURES 1 and 4. A groove 66 is provided in the shaft 30 so that thescrew 65 may be loosened in order to time the eccentric properly, andyet not have the eccentric drop down from its proper position as shownin FIGURE 1. A needle bearing retention coller 67 completes the assemblyand is secured to the shaft 30 by means of screws 68.

It will be apparent by reference to FIGURES 5 and 6 that the arm '55 hascertain indicia 69 thereon which, in coperation with the indicator line70 on the bolt 58, serves to indicate the degree of lateral or workfeeding motion of the needle bar for which the parts have been adjusted.It will be apparent that the nearer the bolt 58 in the arcuate slot 57of the arm is adjusted to the rock shaft 52 the greater will be the feedmotion imparted to the needle bar 25 and its attached needle N, andconversely the further the bolt 58 is adjusted away from the rock shaft52 the lesser will be the lateral movement or feed motion.

Attention is now directed to the presser foot and presser bar equipmentbest illustrated in FIGURE 13. It is to be understood that the presserfoot 71 is given approximately motion to and from the opposing throatplate 72 in order for the fabric to feed more easily between the presserfoot and the throat plate and yet provide sufiicient pressure againstthe fabrics at the precise moment that a thread loop is being formed atthe needle for entry by the hook point of the loop taker 26 in order toprevent flagging or skip stitching. As is well known, a skip stitch isone in which the hook did not enter the needle thread loop and thereforedid not form a proper stitch. The presser foot 71 is attached to apresser bar 73 at one end by means of a screw 74. At the other end ofthe presser bar a presser bar guide 75 is attached by means of a screw76. The presser bar guide 75 is aligned in a guide slot 77 provided inthe block 78, and this guide and slot provision permits endwise movementof the presser bar without permitting it to turn, even slightly on itsaxis. A spring 79 rests against a fixed bushing 80 through which thepresser bar 73 is movable and exerts a spring pressure against the guide75 so that when the needle N moves away from the loop taker the presserfoot 71 is also moved away from the throat plate 72 and the fabrics. Astop screw 81 limits the amount of movement of the presser foot awayfrom the fabric, as will be apparent by reference to FIGURE 13.

A presser foot presser means 82 is secured at one of its ends by screwmeans 83 to the needle end of the needle bar 25. At the other end of thepresser means an aperture 84 is provided which permits the presser means82 to move back and forth on a guide pin 85 attached to the presser footsole plate 86. A compression spring 87 surrounding the guide pin 85 isinterposed between the presser means 82 and the sole plate 86 and isdesigned to serve a purpose of imparting movement to the presser foot,as will soon be explained.

Referring again to FIGURE 13, it will be apparent that as the needle bar25 begins moving away from its position nearest the opposing throatplate 72, the presser foot presser means 82 also moves away from thespring 87 and begins to relieve the compression of said spring and thepressure on the sole plate 86. This motion continues until the spring 79exerts a greater pressure against the guide 75 than is exerted by thespring 87 against the presser means 82, permitting the presser foot 71to move away from the fabric the required amount. As the needle barreaches the end of its stroke, the spring 87 is completely relaxed andthe presser foot presser means 82 is out of contact with the spring 87.

The needle bar 25 now begins its return motion in the reverse directiontoward the loop taker 26, the presser foot presser means 82 againcontacts the spring 87 and forces it toward the presser foot sole plate86 until the pressure exerted against the sole plate is greater thanthat exerted by the spring 79 against the guide 75. This again bringsthe presser foot sole plate 86 against the fabric and applies sufiicientpressure against the fabric so that a stitch may be formed withoutskipping.

The herein described part designing and arrangement in the presser barmechanism is particularly advantageous in permitting easy feeding of thefabric while in the joinseaming unit or attachment. Conventional feeddog means is not employed to move the fabric past the needle in thisunit, and the fabric must be moved by the swinging or feeding movementof the needle at this time, as previously described. The presser footsole plate 86 must press against the fabric until the point of thelooper is safely in the needle loop cast by the needle within the first/a" to travel of the needle away from the rotary hook or loop taker.When the presser foot begins to release its pressure against the fabricthe lateral or feeding movement of the needle can very easily move thefabric.

It is to be understood that in the practical operation of the machinestructure, arrangement is made so that whenever the machine stops theneedle at this time will be in a slightly up position from its mostprojected position with respect to the loop taker, thus to assure thatthe presser foot is properly spaced away from the fabric positioningdevices soon to be described. In this arrangement, the operator can nowuse the needle at this time, or the position thereof, as a locatingdevice for lining up both brassiere cups before she starts the sewingoperation. This has been found to be a very advantageous arrangement. Inthis particular operation of tape seam assembling brassiere cups, it isvery necessary that each of the cups is perfectly aligned so that eachbrassiere pair or cup complement proceeds through the machine inperfectly aligned relation. Both brassiere cups must start together andfinish together, and if the finished brassiere is not produced in thismanner, it will not be perfect and must be rejected or sold as a secondrate product at reduced price.

In proceeding with the practice made possible by the development of theherein disclosed machine structure, the operator picks up from twoseparated bundles a left-hand cup unit 88 and a right hand cup unit 89.These units are placed on the unit attachment generally designated 11,one on the left hand platform 90 thereof and the other on the right handplatform 91 thereof as indicated in FIGURE 19, bringing the inside edgesof the fabric cups inwardly over the inwardly and downwardly curvedportions of the platforms at opposite sides of the center rib 92 andwith the lower edge extremities against the slid ably mounted base 93 ofthe attachment. The operator then simultaneously moves the cups 88 and89 toward the needle end until she feels the front edge of each cupunit, or rather the marginal fabric portion thereof, engage the needle,at which time she follows with the necessary step of bringing aboutapplication of even pressure against both cups feeding them into themachine so that they start and proceed in unison.

In FIGURES 19 through 23 the progressive steps in forming a completedand taped brassiere cup joining and taped seam are illustrated. Theinitial placement of the brassiere cups with their downwardly directedterminal edges of the fabric bodies engaging the slide or base 93 beingshown in FIGURE 19, the formation of the joinseam stitching and initialpart of the seam opening or flattening being shown in FIGURE 20, twosteps in progress of said opening or flattening being shown in FIGURES21 and 22, the introduction of the cover tape with its marginal edgesfolded over on its body also being indicated in FIGURE 22, and thecomplete taped seam being illustrated in FIGURE 23. The join-seamstitching is indicated at 94 in FIGURES 20, 21 and 22.

The seam controlling parts forming a part of the attachment include thepreviously mentioned platforms and 91, the sliding base 93 and thecenter rib 92 upstanding therefrom. To each of the platforms 90 and 91blocks 95 and 96 have been secured, as by soldering. By means of countersunk screws 97 the platforms are attached to the sliding base 93, thescrews passing through holes 98 and into the blocks. It will be apparentby reference to FIGURE 19 that the downwardly and inwardly turnedportions of the platforms 90 and 91 are received in grooves 99 and 100in the base slide 93.

The form and arrangement of the platforms and the slide and mountingsthereof will be best apparent by reference to FIGURES l, 2, 3 and 13through 18 of the drawings. It will be apparent by reference to FIGURE 3that the center rib 92 is provided with a cup positioning indicatornotch 101, the same being disposed directly over a needle passageopening 102 formed laterally through the rib to permit needle passage,and this opening is continued through the end extremity of the rib as at103 to permit the join-seam stitching line to pass out through the endof the rib during feeding of the fabrics.

By reference to FIGURES 13, 14 and 17 it will be observed that a lowerseam spreader or seam buster 104 is integrally attached to the base 93and rib and extends forwardly therefrom, having a gradually downwardlysloping ridge portion 105 merging into the base extension throughgradually sloping curved areas 106 and 107 each to one side of thecenter rib 105. See also FIGURES 20, 21 and 22. A finger piece 108 isattached to the sliding base 93 by means of screws 109 received intapped holes 110 in the base. The finger piece fits into a clearanceprovided for its mounting in the bottom of said base.

Slide guides 111 and 112 are attached by screws 113 to a base 114secured to the housing 23 by means of bolts 115. It will be apparent byreference to FIGURES 13, 15 and 16 that the slide guides are adjustablein order to tighten or loosen the sliding operation. In FIGURE 3 thereis shown a spring 116 pressing against a detent member 117 confinedwithin an adjustable screw 118 and held in place by a lock nut 119. Thisdetent is engaged in one or the other of two receiving recesses formedin the bottom of the base 93 in order to retain the slide in itsoperative position illustrated in FIGURE 3 or in an outwardly retractedposition in which the slide extension is with drawn so as to provideclearance for threading the needle N and to replace the bobbin thread inthe loop taker 26.

Cooperating with the upstanding rib and the lower seam buster orspreader rib is an upper plow or upper seam buster 120 having for itspurpose the control of the sewed fabric in relation to the lower seambuster, as schematically illustrated in FIGURES 19 through 22. Betweenthe upper and lower seam busters a slight space is provided to permitthe join-seam to pass therethrough, as clearly illustrated in FIGURES20, 21 and 22. The upper seam buster or plow 120 is attached to one endof a rod 121 (FIGURES 1 and 3) by means of screws 122. The other end ofthe rod 121 is attached to a connector 123 which in turn is connected toone end of a second rod 124, the other end of which is connected to oneend of a second connector 125. The other end of the second connector isconnected to one end of a third rod 126, the other end of which issecured on the head base 127 attached to the sewing head cover 128 ofthe standard machine 10 by means of shoulder screws 129.

It will be observed by reference to FIGURES 1, 3 and 7 to 9 that theplow 120 has a receiving end disposed at the end of the upstandingdivider rib 92 and itself has a depending upright spreader rib 130overlying the lower spreader rib in adjacent spaced relation, and twolaterally extending seam flattening wall portions 131 sloping graduallydownward toward the delivery end of the plow which is disposed proximateto the tape seaming position, extending under the receiving end of thepresser foot 21.

It will be apparent that should it be so desired, the plow may be swungup away from the attachment and the tape seaming position about the axisof the rod 124 to an outof-the-way position.

A tape folder 133 best shown in FIGURES 1, 3 and is attached through itsbracket 134 and by means of screws 135 to the underside of the base orcloth plate 16. The delivery end of the folder delivers the tape througha slot 136 extending through the base or cloth plate. The tape isthreaded into the receiving or entrance end 137 of the folder and whilepassing through the folder is folded into the shape clearly illustratedin FIGURES 18 and 23. The delivery end 138 of the folder projects intothe slot 136, and the tape is guided out of the delivery end into theslot 136 breaking over one edge of the slot, and thence into the groove139 in the work plate and into an aligned groove 140 in the throatplate. Thus, the tape is perfectly guided and controlled as to shape andsize.

The joined brassiere cups and the folded cover tape pass under thepresser foot 21 and the latter is fitted with a spring 141 having itsfree end portion engaged downwardly against the upturned receiving endportion of the presser foot, thus to yieldably hold the toe of the footdown, and yet allow the foot to lift over each joined brassiere cupassembly seam passing thereunder.

A longitudinal spring member 142 (FIGURE 14) is attached by a screw 143to the block 144 on the housing 23, said block being secured on thehousing by screws 145. This spring 142 has for its purpose to maintainthe joinseamed brassiere cups against the previously describedupstanding rib.

It will be observed by reference to FIGURE 14 that the throat plate 72has a limited area protuberance 146 projecting in opposition to asimilar protuberance 147 on the opposing sole plate 86. Theseprotuberances are arranged opposite each other to provide minimalfrictional resistance to passage of the fabrics therebetween.

A plate 148 (FIGURE 2) is attached by screws 149 to the block 144attached to the housing 23 and plate 150 is attached by screws 151 to ablock 152 secured to said housing. This permits the join-seamedbrassiere cups, as they leave the attachment, to proceed downward (FIG-URE 5) to be laid under the presser foot 21 of the standard machine.

A bobbin case holder positioning member 153 is provided, as best shownin FIGURE 14, the same being adjustably held in place by screw and slotmeans 154, said holder having a projection 155 thereon serving toprevent the bobbin case holder from rotating.

The previously mentioned tape puller or feed means generally designated12 forms no part of the present invention except in its particularcombination with mechanisms herein described. This puller feed means isbest illustrated in FIGURES 3, 11 and 12 of the drawings. It comprises aone way clutch 156 driven from a rock shaft 157, which by means of alinkage 158 drives a second rock shaft 159 which in turn, throughlinkage 160, drives the one way clutch in the desired intermittentfeeding or step-by-step manner. A third shaft 161 connected with the oneway clutch to rotate in only one direction drives the lower puller roll162 secured on the shaft 161 by screw means 163. The driven roll 162 isopposed by the upper spring pressed idler roll 164 as best shown inFIGURE 3.

In FIGURE 1 there is included a schematic showing of the introduction ofthe seam stitching threads. The joinseaming thread enters the machine at165 and is passed about a conventional tensioning device 166 and throughguides 167, thence through a conventionally operated thread take-uplever 168 and thence over fixed guides 169 10 and under the worksupporting platform means to the needle N as indicated at 170. The twotape stitching threads enter the machine at 171, pass about conventionaltensioning devices 172 and guides 173, then through the seam threadtake-up lever 168 and thence to the two needles 1313 as at 174.

In the foregoing, there is disclosed a simple and efficient sewingmachine structure wherein a single operator can join brassiere cups andcover tape the join-seam simultaneously. With the two operations beingaccomplished simultaneously in the machine structure, not only is oneoperator saved, but handling between the joining and taping operationsalso is eliminated. By reason of the provision of the controlling andguiding devices herein disclosed, the joining seam is consistentlycentered between the two needles which attach the tapes, and thusquality is improved. In addition, automatic feeding of the joinedbrassiere halves or cups reduces puckering and distortion such asresults from previously practiced manual handling.

While preferred structure forms and part arrangements are disclosedherein, it is to be understood that variations in part structure andarrangement may be made without departing from the spirit and scope ofthe invention as defined in the appended claims.

We claim:

1. In a sewing machine, means for presenting marginal edge portions oftwo fabric bodies in uprightly opposed relation with downwardlyterminating edge extremities, stitch forming means including a looptaker operable on a vertical axis and a horizontally reciprocable needlefor forming a stitch line spaced upwardly from and parallelling the edgeextremities of said marginal edge portions and joining said edgeportions, means for spreading apart and flattening said edge portionsand overlying body fabric portions, means for applying a cover tape oversaid spread apart edge portions, and stitch forming means including twoloop takers arranged side-by-side on vertical axes and spaced along afeed line from said first mentioned loop taker and two verticallyreciprocable needles for forming two stitch lines spaced apart one ateach side of said first mentioned stitch line and serving to secure thecover tape to the fabric bodies.

2. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein said twoneedles are carried in side-by-side relation on a common needle barwhich is swingable as well as reciprocable, said horizontallyreciprocable needle also being carried on a needle bar which isswingable as well as reciprocable, said two needles carried inside-by-side relation, thus being effective in imparting feedingmovement to the taped seam during the sewing on of the tape.

3. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein said twoneedles are carried in side-by-side relation on a common needle barwhich is swingable as well as reciprocable, said horizontallyreciprocable needle also being carried on a needle bar which isswingable as well as reciprocable, said two needles carried inside-by-side relation thus being effective in imparting feeding movementto the taped seam during the sewing on of the tape, and wherein therealso is included intermittently operable opposed roller means engagingthe taped seam and effective to pull the same along as the swingingneedle bar carried needles are imparting movement thereto.

4. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein said twoneedles are carried in side-by-side relation on a common needle barwhich is swingable as well as reciprocable, said horizontallyreciprocable needle also being carried on a needle bar which isswingable as well as reciprocable, said two needles carried inside-by-side relation, thus being effective in imparting feedingmovement to the taped seam during the sewing on of the tape, said twoneedles being so spaced with relation to said spread and flattened edgeportions as to cause their stitch lines to pass through said edgeportions as Well as the underlying tape and the overlying fabric bodies.

5. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein the tapeapplying means is formed to fold over marginal edge portions of the tapeonto the body of the tape and present said overfolded marginal edgeportions against the overlying spread apart and flattened edge portionsof the body fabric portions.

6. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein the tapeapplying means is formed to fold over marginal edge portions of the tapeonto the body of the tape and present said overfolded marginal edgeportions against the overlying spread apart and flattened edge portionsof the body fabric portions, said two needles carried in side-by-siderelation being so spaced with relation to said spread apart andflattened edge portions of the body fabrics as to cause their stitchlines to pass through said folded over marginal edge portions of thetape and said spread apart and flattened edge portions of the bodyfabrics as well as the underlying non-folded body of the tape.

7. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein the spreadingapart and flattening means includes a divider rib upstanding from a baseand two body fabric supporting and guiding platforms having inwardly anddownwardly turned body fabric margin guiding portions engaging the baseuprightly in laterally spaced relation to and paralleling said ribarranged in advance of the position of the horizontal needle bar and thecooperating single loop taker, a lower spreader rib extending from thebase and forwardly from said rib and merging into the base throughdownwardly and outwardly curved wall portions to a position adjacent thetwo side-by-side loop takers, and a divider plow fixedly supported topresent a receiving end at the terminus of the divider rib and toterminate adjacent the delivery end of said lower spreader rib andhaving an upright spreader rib overlying the lower spreader rib inadjacent spaced relation and laterally extending seam flattening wallportions sloping gradually downward toward the delivery end of the plow.

8. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 7 wherein the dividerrib has an opening therethrough for needle passage and extending throughthe delivery end thereof to permit stitch clearance therethrough.

9. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 7 wherein there isincluded a longitudinally extending spring means engageable with a bodyfabric being fed to hold it against a side wall of the divider rib ofthe plow during sewing together of the body fabrics.

10. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 8 wherein there isincluded a longitudinally extending spring means engageable with a bodyfabric being fed to hold it against a side wall of the divider rib ofthe plow during sewing together of the body fabrics.

11. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 7 wherein the base ismounted in a slideway so that the base with its divider rib and lowerspreader rib can be slid away relative to the platforms and from theplow to make the sewing area at the location of the horizontallyreciprocable needle and its cooperating loop taker readily accessible.

12. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 11 wherein the plowalso is readily swingable upwardly out of said sewing area.

13. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 7 wherein the tapeapplying means is disposed to deliver the tape upwardly into the feedline under the plow.

14. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 7 wherein the tapeapplying means is formed to fold over marginal edge portions of the tapeonto the body of the tape and is disposed to deliver the tape upwardlyinto the feed line under the plow and place said overfolded marginaledge portions against the overlying spread apart and flattened edgeportions of the body fabric portions.

15. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 7 wherein the dividerrib has an opening therethrough for needle passage and extending throughthe delivery end thereof to permit stitch clearance therethrough, saidrib 12' having thereon a visual indicator readily viewable by anoperator of the machine and disposed over the rib opening where theneedle passes therethrough.

16. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein thevertically reciprocable needle bar and needles and cooperating looptakers comprise parts of a standard sewing machine and the fabric bodysupporting and positioning means, the tape applying means and the seamforming horizontally reciprocable needle bar and needle and thecooperating loop taker and drive means therefor form part of anattachment assembly readily mountable on and removable from the standardsewing machine.

17. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein there areincluded opposed throat plate and presser foot means cooperable with thefabric feed at the join-seaming single needle and loop taker position,means being included for giving the presser foot limited movement towardand from the throat plate to permit the fabric to feed more easilybetween the presser foot throat plate and yet provide sufficientpressure against the fabrics at the precise moment that a thread loop isbeing formed for entry by the hook point of the loop taker in order toassure against skip stitching.

18. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 1 wherein there areincluded opposed throat plate and presser foot means cooperable with thefabric feed at the join-seaming single needle and loop taker position,means being included for giving the presser foot limited movement towardand from the throat plate to permit the fabric to feed more easilybetween the presser foot throat plate and yet provide sufficientpressure against the fabrics at the precise moment that a thread loop isbeing formed for entry by the hook point of the loop taker in order toassure against skip stitching, said pressser foot and throat plateincluding opposing small area fabric engaging protuberances effective topresent minimal frictional resistance to passage of fabricstherebetween.

19. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 17 wherein the presserfoot is carried on a presser bar and wherein there are included springmeans constantly tending to move the presser bar in a direction formoving the presser foot away from the throat plate, stop means limitingsaid movement away, a presser foot presser member movable with theneedle bar, and a compression spring interposed between the presser footand the presser member and effective upon imposition of a predeterminedcompression thereof to impart the desired movement of the presser foottoward the throat plate.

20. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 19 wherein the stopmeans limiting said movement away of ber being the part engageable asstop means with said stop screw.

21. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 19 wherein the stopmeans limiting said movement away of the presser foot comprises anadjustably mounted stop screw, there also being included a guide memberprojecting laterally from the presser bar and guided in a longitudinalslotway to guide movement of the presser bar and prevent turning thereofabout it axis, said guide member being the part enaggeable as stop meanswith said stop screw.

22. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 21 wherein the presserbar is slidable in a bracket having the slotway in which the guidemember is guided, the stop screw being mounted on said bracket andprojecting into said slotway.

23. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 18 wherein the presserfoot and throat plate protuberances are apertured to permit needlepassage therethrough, the associated loop taker also having associatedtherewith a bobbin case holder, and there being included an adjustablysupported positioning finger having a projection engaging with thebobbin case holder and formed and positioned to hold the same fromrotating and yet permit the needle threaded to enter and leave theopening between the pro- 13 jection and opening in the holder so thatthe needle thread can go around the ibobbin case holder.

24. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 2 wherein thehorizontally disposed needle bar is reciprocable in a guide supported ona pivot stud, there also being included a rotary drive shaft, crank andpitman means for imparting reciprocation to the needle bar from saiddrive shaft, and an eccentric and strap and crank and rock shaft crankand link means for imparting a swinging motion to said needle bar guidefrom said drive shaft.

25. A sewing machine structure having three loop takers a substantiallyvertically reciprocable needle bar carrying needles cooperable with twoof said loop takers, and a substantially horizontally reciprocableneedle bar carrying a needle cooperable with the third of said looptakers and arranged together with the third 100p taker in front of saidvertically reciprocable needle bar and the two cooperating loop takers.

26. A sewing machine structure as defined in claim 25 wherein movementin a work feeding direction is imparted to the two needle bars wherebythe needle bar carried needles while engaging in work pieces will impartfeeding movement thereto during stitching operations.

27. A sewing machine structure as defined in claim 25 wherein there isincluded puller feed means disposed behind the location of thecooperating two loop takers, and needle bars.

28. A sewing machine structure as defined in claim 26 wherein there isincluded puller feed means disposed behind the location of thecooperating two loop takers and needle bars.

29. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 25 wherein there areincluded means for presenting opposed fabric piece margins insubstantially vertical position to be join-seamed by action of saidhorizontally reciprocable needle bar carried needle and the cooperatingthird loop taker, means for flattening said join-seam, means forapplying a cover tape upwardly against the flattened joinseam inposition for being stitch line attached to the flattened seam by actionof the needles of said vertically reciprocable needle bars and the twoloop takers cooperating therewith.

30. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 29 wherein the seamflattening means includes cooperating upper and lower seam busters" anda plow means formed and disposed to gradually flatten the seam as it isapproaching the tape stitching needles and cooperating loop takers.

31. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 29 wherein opposinguprightly disposed throat plate means and presser foot means cooperatewith the horizontally reciprocable needle and its cooperating looptaker, means being provided for moving the presser foot means toward andaway from the throat plate during each reciprocation of saidhorizontally reciprocable needle.

32. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 29 wherein opposinguprightly disposed throat plate means and presser foot means cooperatewith the horizontally reciprocable needle and its cooperating looptaker, means being provided for moving the presser foot means toward andaway from the throat plate during each reciprocation of saidhorizontally reciprocable needle, said throat plate and presser footcarrying small area protuberances opposing each other for engaging inminimal friction contact wtih fabrics passing therebetween.

33. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 29 wherein thecooperating two loop takers and substantially vertically reciprocableneedle bars comprise parts of a standard sewing machine and the thirdsubstantially horizontally reciprocable needle bar and cooperating looptaker together with the seam flattening means comprise parts of anattachment readily mountable on and removable from said standard sewingmachine.

34. Sewing machine structure as defined in claim 33 wherein thesubstantially horizontally reciprocable needle bar and cooperating looptaker are actuated by driving means including driving belt and gearmeans and having motion imparted thereto from a driven shaft forming apart of the standard machine.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,232,091 7/1917 Ringe 112-2031,809,460 6/1931 Weis.

1,866,647 7/1932 Gru-man 112-262 2,003,672 6/1935 Weis 112-2 2,157,3685/1939 Weis 112-2 2,176,643 10/1939 Sigoda 112-262 2,612,855 10/1952Sailer 112-147 2,746,412 5/1956 Roseman 112-262 3,150,621 9/ 1964Warnock.

JAMES R. BOLER, Primary Examiner.

US. Cl. X.R.

